The range master is not plug & play. In fact, it’s certification depends on an engineer installing it. Or at the very least, someone experienced.
That being said, it’s really not all that difficult with a bit of help, and it sounds like you’ll be getting some.
I suspect the installation instructions are on the CD. I can help once I get to a real keyboard ((I’m on my phone) and so can others who have used one. Don’t panic yet!
The range master is not plug & play. In fact, it’s certification depends on an engineer installing it. Or at the very least, someone experienced.
That being said, it’s really not all that difficult with a bit of help, and it sounds like you’ll be getting some.
I suspect the installation instructions are on the CD. I can help once I get to a real keyboard ((I’m on my phone) and so can others who have used one. Don’t panic yet!
Here are some simplified instructions on installing the Rangemaster. Be warned that I last did this years ago; I don't think the Rangemaster has changed much but there may be a few things out of date.
My approach has always been to start simple and small. Get things working, so that you can gain some experience and learn, and you'll naturally (if you have the budget and desire) want to add on.
First off, I installed my Rangemaster at ground level. Easier to work on, easier to ground, not as much danger of lightning strikes and best of all, clearly legal. All elevated installations could potentially have legality issues unless you can prove that nothing is acting like a long ground lead.
I pounded a metal mast (in my case, 6 feet long) into the ground until about 18 inches were left above ground. I mounted the Rangemaster box on the mast, taking care that it was insulated from the mast (mine was a plastic box so it was relatively easy, I don't know what they are these days). The ground wire is then attached to the mast.
That gives you a simple ground. In areas of good ground conductivity, it will suffice. In other areas, you may have to improve it to get better range (you can add more ground stakes, you can add radials, etc.).
The Rangemaster is connected to audio and power through individual wires. I used shielded CAT 4 cable, and connected the audio directly to an Inovonics 222 (which had the necessary impedance). I suspect that what you called coax isn't that, but CAT cable so that you can make the required connections.
I connected power to a regulated power supply (not using their supplied wall wart). I didn't use their studio module.
The studio module, which you didn't mention that you had, does several things. It allows you to connect the wall wart - you then run the appropriate power wires to the Rangemaster. It also allows you to connect a standard 3.5mm stereo cable as audio input, and converts the impedances to something that the Rangemaster can handle.
Mine came with the studio module; I don't know if it's standard these days, or optional, but if you want to use the wall wart or directly connect your computer output to the transmitter, it would be very useful.
Tuning the Rangemaster is perhaps the most difficult chore. With other transmitters (such as the Procaster) its pretty much plug and play. The Rangemaster I had had a then optional module with a light in it that turned green when the transmitter was properly tuned to 100mw input to the final stage. I think it's standard now. However, I found it difficult to determine exactly when the light turned from red to full on green (there were intermediate stages).
Luckily, I believe that the Rangemaster still has two test measurements points that allow you tune the input to 100mw exactly - all you need is a multimeter that will measure voltage and current.
If the process of tuning is still the same, you do it in two stages. You apply power to the transmitter, and use coarse tuning (for the antenna) to maximize one of those test readings (I forget which one - it should be in the documentation).
You then fine tune (using a separate control) and take your test readings until your input is spot on (remember, power = current * voltage, don't forget about the correct units - one of those measurements is voltage, the other is current).
You can then apply audio to your transmitter, and increase the input level (another control) until distortion appears, then back it off slightly.
And you're done.
You can then drive (or walk around), listen in to the station and see if you're getting the range that you want.
The Rangemaster needs audio processing. I used a Symetrix 421 (mono) compressor/limiter/expander, coupled with an Inovonics 222, and it sounded great. Not FM, but certainly very acceptable for my programming, which was vintage jazz and mostly mono 50s/60s oldies.
If you get the studio module, you can do some audio processing on your computer, but it won't be as effective (in my opinion). It will be simpler, overall, however.
As I stated at the beginning, I used a very simple ground. Improving your ground is perhaps the best, legal way to improve your signal range if you need or want to. But that's a topic for another set of posts.
I don't believe mine came with the studio module. At least, I don't see anything in the box that allow power and 3.5mm connections. It still comes in the big, gray plastic box.
I'm gonna talk to my girlfriend's dad today and get his initial thoughts. I also plan on watching the DVD and see if it provides any insight. I also called Rangemaster and left a message to find out what, if anything, I am missing (like a power supply). But maybe her dad will have a fix for all that.
I will keep you all posted.
Thank you,
kc
Everything finally clicked. I get it now. It's a wonderful feeling.
So what is the last piece of the signal chain? The audio processor or the converter (if you use one)? If you aren't using a converter and you're using your balanced stereo XLR outs on your mixer, how are you summing them in the transmitter to mono (if you aren't using a processor)?
Thank you!
Anyone ever have an issue with the green light not coming on? I finally got a chance to get my transmitter up and test it (I have the agile one set to 1700AM). I triple checked all connections and confirmed via the volt meter that the transmitter was getting the 16v DC power.
But no green light. Any thoughts? Oh, the power is definitely on in the transmitter also. I made sure of that.
The green light indicates that you're getting 100mw input to the final stage of the transmitter.
If it isn't green, and the module isn't defective, then it means that you're not.
It's always best to tune the Rangemaster manually, as you can see what's really happening.
When you tune the antenna, you move a jumper in the antenna tuning block to peak voltage. There should be quite a drop in voltage on either side of the 'sweet' position - if not, then you might not be grounded properly.
Once you've peaked the voltage, then you switch monitoring positions and measure current (detailed in the manual) - you vary the power control to get exactly the 100mw. There's a table in the instructions that specifies the current along with voltages for 100mw, but you can also just multiply the voltage times the current to get the power (power = current * voltage).
If you tune so that you're getting 100mw, and the green light isn't on, then it's defective.
If you can't get a measured 100mw, then, as mentioned previously, your ground is probably not good enough. You can try connecting the ground to something big and metallic, even as a test. For your final install, you might need to add more ground rods, or radials.
Even when I was fully tuned up at 100mw, the so-called green light was a mixture of red and green, and never fully turned green. Make sure your audio isn't connected when tuning, as your power will vary with modulation, and that light will turn red. You want 100mw input for an unmodulated signal (i.e. carrier only).