The most important part of your antenna system is a good ground, and since my installs have always been outdoors I've driven my share of 6 foot ground rods over the years and know it's a bitch to do (and practically impossible to pull one back out). I wish I had known this invaluable tip sooner..
Back in 1998 the AM band had just expanded from 1600 to 1700, which had prompted a series of articles across several issues of RADIO WORLD about constructing an expanded-band (licenced) AM station by WC. Alexander. https://www.worldradiohistory.com/Archive-All-BC-Engineering/Radio-World-Modern/1998/ The fourth article of the series was titled "Build on a Good Ground System" (January 21, 1998, page 14). It's got a lot of good info in it, but my favorite part of the article was at the very end where he concluded with this very useful tip:
"....Most of us who have pounded in a ground rod or two cringe at the thought of hammering an 8-footer in. Here is an easier way: Use a half-inch chuck hammer drill. Insert the end of the rod into the drill chuck just as if it were a bit. Then, using a ladder to position yourself, "drill" the rod right into the ground! Unless you hit a rock, you can run an 8 foot rod in all the way in just a couple of minutes. Another advantage of this method is that the top of the rod is nice and clean, not smashed to smithereens."
I've been thinking of ground planes a little bit more since it looks like I may be moving, hopefully to something with a little more real estate.
One tip I got from an amateur radio operator is to use aluminum-sided insulation, available in rolls and easy to work with. Place this under your antenna in a circle of about 10 feet in radius. You really don't require much more with a shortened, 10 foot antenna. If you want to improve the aesthetics, you can remove the sod, put down the solid, circular ground plane, and then replace it.
Another is to use a metal roof as a ground plane. Such a roof might radiate, and be considered part of the antenna system if you directly connect your ground wire to it. But you don't have to - if you mount the transmitter several inches above the roof, the magic of induction will take place, and certainly improve the efficiency of your antenna. You will also be meeting the letter of the regulations.
Then there are power lines. Like railway tracks, RF can follow those power lines for quite a distance. Maybe not providing a ground, per say, but certainly what is called a wave guide. The principals are used in communications systems in long tunnels.
One tip I got from an amateur radio operator is to use aluminum-sided insulation.. Place this under your antenna in a circle of about 10 feet in radius. .. to improve the aesthetics, you can remove the sod, ..
That's an intriguing idea, but how long could the aluminum hold up it's effectiveness? For aesthetics a simpler way might be, instead of burying the ground plane disc, just cover it with wood chips with a circle of lawn bricks around it. It would look nice.
Another is to use a metal roof as a ground plane. Such a roof might radiate, and be considered part of the antenna system if you directly connect your ground wire to it. .. .. .
It might also not be viewed that way. There's a lot to be considered in the saga of that three year battle KENC went through with the FCC. Multiple inspections had took place at all three locations - the 40' tower, the 100' water tower the next town over, and the one installed atop the highschool football stadiums metal roofed announcer booth - Which was the only one the agent had deemed compliant. I can't confirm how it had been grounded to the roof, but all indications are that it had been grounded to something. Ken had expressed wonder it being only one not t cited in spite of the other two installations getting multiple citations.
Then there are power lines. Like railway tracks, RF can follow those power lines for quite a distance. .. .
All potentially beneficial of improving your signal, but also has equal potential that it could hinder it... Metal roofs, train tracks, power lines are interactors worth experimenting with, but results, positive and negative, are sure to vary with positioning and area. It's always a try and see situation.
This post was modified 9 months ago 2 times by RichPowers
One tip I got from an amateur radio operator is to use aluminum-sided insulation.. Place this under your antenna in a circle of about 10 feet in radius. .. to improve the aesthetics, you can remove the sod, ..
That's an intriguing idea, but how long could the aluminum hold up it's effectiveness? For aesthetics a simpler way might be, instead of burying the ground plane disc, just cover it with wood chips with a circle of lawn bricks around it. It would look nice.
The aluminum siding will radiate best if it is coated with a non-metallic paint over the long term; because of oxidation. Also, where it connects electrically to the ground wire (which is likely copper) be sure to use a proper dielectric grease. Most home building stores like Home Depot and Lowes sell this. Aluminum that is oxidized creates too much resistance to do a good job, but the grease does its job to prevent it. So does the paint. The grease is available in very small tubes.
Regarding the tool to beat in the ground rods: you are talking about a $300 tool if you buy a brand name like Bosch. I've used the Bosch tool and it's exceptional. It's an "SDS" type hammer drill. If you need to beat in ground rods, or drill through cement or brick, it can't be beat. Exception: competing brands like Milwaukee and such are decent. If drilling with one you're talking about seconds or short minutes to do the task. Do not forgot you're hearing protection! And if drilling on cement wear dust mask because of silica dust.
Regarding the tool to beat in the ground rods: you are talking about a $300 tool if you buy a brand name like Bosch. I've used the Bosch tool and it's exceptional. It's an "SDS" type hammer drill. If you need to beat in ground rods, or drill through cement or brick, it can't be beat. Exception: competing brands like Milwaukee and such are decent. If drilling with one you're talking about seconds or short minutes to do the task. Do not forgot you're hearing protection! And if drilling on cement wear dust mask because of silica dust.
My daytime "retirement" job is working for a Fortune 500, big box home improvement store. A $50 tool seems enticing; I get it. Also, as a longtime manufacturer of mechanical/electrical devices for industry, I can attest you want a good tool. Buy it once; don't buy shit. Or use a good 5 lb. hammer and a buddy holding a ladder.
@centinel Perhaps, but if the only thing your ever going to use it for is to drive a ground rod maybe once in a blue moon, then it makes no sense at all to spend $300 on a tool when a $50 one (or less used) will suffice. Unless of course you have that kind of money to throw around, - which most part 15 hobbyists generally don't have from what I can tell. That $300 might be better put towards a higher end transmitter or processing gear.. but I would aim at finding a used $20 or $30 hammer drill to drive your ground rod easier - or borrow one, or just do it the old fashioned way for nothing!
