- Posts
I need some help on solder irons. I’ve been an electronic hobbyist for years, and soldering has never seemed to be a problem. Recently it seems since lead free solder came about, my solder iron tips get black very fast and I get a few solders out of them if at all, then I have to clean extremely well and retin. Even doing that it doesn’t take long at all maybe even a couple of solders and the tips are all black again and useless.
I have been using inexpensive solder irons which do not seem to have copper tips. Can anyone tell me what the best solder iron to use is and where to get one? Is there any difference between a Weller iron and a cheap iron. I have seen irons at radio shack that compare with the ones ive been buying and I cant see how they can be any good. I always thought a solder iron was a solder iron but now I’m beginning to wonder. Its very frustrating to use a solder iron a couple of times and have it go useless. I need some serious advice on this. Thank you for helping me – I should know better my self what to get and use, you get old you get dumb it seems-
Thanks guys,
Radio Joe
Total posts : 45366Hi Radio Joe:
Over the years I picked up a trick that helps especially with the smaller pencil tip irons and I use one from radio shack that has replaceable tips, which I think are copper.
By keeping a small wet sponge or even very wet tightly folded paper towel I am able to wipe the hot tip with very rapid passes across the wet surface. This does a lot to keep the tip continuously ready for use.
The larger iron, a Weller, doesn’t get used much these days, but it has copper tips and also benefits from quick wipes with a wet wad of paper towel.
Total posts : 45366First and foremost, to do quality soldering work you need to invest in a soldering iron with a task-matched replaceable copper tip. Fine tips for fine work and big tips for big work with lots of heat. The wattage rating of the iron depends on the work you are doing. For fine circuit work and delicate components, usually a low wattage iron is in order. Wiring and coax connectors will require an iron with more heat or wattage.
Lead free solder has a slightly higher melting point than the lead based solder used in years past. When you buy solder, be sure to check the melting point and the gauge of the solder wire. The lower the melting point and the smaller the wire, the finer the work you can do.
Now to the black tip issue. My solution to the problem was to keep a wet sponge in a saucer near the work. When I complete soldering a joint, I run the tip over the sponge several times to clean the tip. The tip will stay cleaner longer and not require the repeated tinning. This also cools the tip slightly adding to tip life. Remember to give the tip time to recover to temperature before attempting to solder another joint. On initial warm up of the iron, I will go through the same process to clean the tip as the old solder tinning becomes molten.
The thing to remember, control your iron heat and the chemistry of the soldering process; and your success and enjoyment will follow.
Total posts : 45366Hi Joe,
I replaced my very good Ungar soldering pencil with a temperature controlled Hakko 936 soldering station. I also purchased some different sized chisel tips for this. The difference between this and the uncontrolled 45 watt pencil is incredible and though a bit pricey it is worth the cost. I am able to do all normal tasks plus surface mount work.
The unit reaches operating temperature in less than 30 seconds so I don’t have to leave it idling for long periods and this reduces the scale buildup on the tip.
I bought this and the tips from Kiesub Electronics.
There is a less expensive brand, Tenma, which used to be available from MCM electronics but I have not used this brand.
Neil
Total posts : 45366I have a soldering Iron from radio shack, it actually works pretty good.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
