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I have made a few coils, with and without taps. For the SSTRAN, I think there are some tips on the web site regarding Antenna Guy Carl’s Coil.
From my experience, the hardest thing with winding coils on a PVC pipe is handling and turning the pipe as you form the coil. This is really hard to do without a jig of some sort. I have a bench lathe, so I chucked the pipe and turned it with one hand while guiding and tensioning the wire with the other using my thumb to guide the wire and keep tension. The last coil I did has 16 taps and it took me about 20 minutes to wind it. Really got nice looking coils doing this. Drill holes in the PVC where you want the coil to start and end before winding so you have somewhere to fasten the wire.
The last one I did was similar to the SSTRAN coil with taps. I used #14THHN insulated wire (this was for another purpose and I am not recommending using this wire for Carl’s coil). As the SSTRAN site says, I marked two lines on the pipe and placed a tap every two turns, staggering each tap alternating guide lines. When ready to form a tap, I taped the wire to the pipe, and used a long nosed plier to form a U shaped loop. The wire is stiff enough to hold the U shape as you continue winding. When finished, I stripped the insulatiion from the U loops and tinned them.
I use this particular coil in an experimental application where the taps rough tune and a parallel capacitor fine tunes. It has such a sharp resonance point that it is difficult to peak. Just having my hand near the coil detunes it. Point is it has high Q.
By the way, if you coat the PVC with spar varnish as recommended, I found that it took three days to dry before I could handle the coil without leaving dirt and fingerprints. This was when the temp was in the 70’s. Right now it is 23 here and it would probably never dry. Be patient.
Take your time with this and practice first.