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Yes, there should be no problem.
I don’t know if you know how to use the SolderWick so here goes: Clip the transistor out next to the body leaving the leads behind in the board. Remove the leads by heating with a soldering iron and pull them out one at a time with needle nose pliers. It is important that the solder is melted before you pull or the board can be damaged. Place the solder wick on top of the pad on the bottom of the board and heat it with the soldering iron pressing the wick to the pad with the iron. You should see the solder wick up leaving a clean pad and open hole. If the hole doesn’t come clean, add fresh solder to the pad and repeat. Just go easy on the heat from the iron. I use a hot iron (45 watt controlled iron set to 300 degrees C) and short time…much better than a low wattage iron for a long time. It should not take more than 5 seconds per pad. The solder wick leaves a flux mess behind and if it bothers you you can remove it with a bit of rubbing or denatured alcohol. Also, watch the tinning on your iron since the wick will strip it quickly. Retin as needed. If the wick is too big (wide) then cut it with diagonal cutters lengthwise to get the width you need. This is really easy with some practice and it would be good if you could try it on a junker board first.
It is possible to use the wick from the bottom of the board without clipping the transistor leads. Once the solder is wicked, the transistor should pull from the board. I just prefer to cut the leads first especially when replacing ICs.