An EMI suppression capacitor across the line eliminates the switching noise from power supplies. This can be done where the power enters a transmitter at the DC power jack for example. It's explained here and what values to use.
I found out that this only cleans up the AC line and has to be across the AC line. A switching power supply is after the AC line and won't work. A LC filter is needed on the DC line between the power supply and the transmitter or whatever.
I am getting one of these that is made for cleaning up the DC ahead of the power supply not before it.
https://www.amazon.ca/NOYITO-Filter-Power-Filtering-Board/dp/B0B9KP1DVJ?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATCVC199CHVK0&th=1
If this works I will be able to use any 12 volt wall adaptor with the Procaster, not just a 3 prong grounded one.
Stupid Amazon doesn't like to copy and paste here so here is a picture of what goes between the power supply and transmitter. A little project case would be good to put this in.
Supposed to make dirty DC 12 volts into clean 12 volts DC.
@mark Your previous setup showed being powered it through your Bluetti (using like a UPS). You could just eliminate the wall wart and power it from the Bluetti USB (at 12v) or directly from it's 12v output, either path should be clean since it's a quality unit.
@richpowers Yes you are right. In fact, I could with a multi outlet cigarette lighter type plug for the 12 volts DC from the Bluetti power the transmitter, Cuthbert, and computer all from the pure DC direct from the Bluetti.....but, I don't know for sure but if the charger keeps cycling on and off there may be some charger interference but I'd have to ask Bluetti about that. Best would be running directly from the battery unplugged but then it would need a charge every day and it would shut down if I am not here when the battery runs out.
Also I have never seen a cigarette lighter jack with 3 corded outlets with the barrel power jack plugs the devices take.
Or I could just run the transmitter from the DC and the other from the AC with the power station plugged into the wall so still have the UPS function. I'll have to try that.
But I will try the DC filter also and see if it cleans up switching noise from wall wart power supplies. The bluetti's USB outlets are 5 volts DC not 12. Only the cigarette lighter socket like what is in a car is 12 volts and that is right off the liFePO4 battery.
... pure DC direct from the Bluetti.....but, I don't know for sure but if the charger keeps cycling on and off there may be some charger interference
Seems to me you would be bypassing the AC entirely, your power to the transmitter would be coming directly from the battery, -- It doesn't seem to me like the charger would interfere, but then again I know they have a fast charging feature with AC and that might. Anyway I suspect the Bluetti components are quality enough not to introduce no dirty current.
Also I have never seen a cigarette lighter jack with 3 corded outlets with the barrel power jack plugs the devices take.
Not sure what you mean, there are all kinds 3-way outlets for cigarette jacks readily available, what barrel plugs you mean?
The bluetti's USB outlets are 5 volts DC not 12. Only the cigarette lighter socket like what is in a car is 12 volts and that is right off the liFePO4 battery.
The Bluetti s USB outlets are basically whatever you want them to be. A step up/step down converter is all that's needed, for example I bought this adjustable one for about $3 on Amazon and have used it numerous times on several devices; if I need 5v, I turn the dial to 5v, if 19v is needed then I set it for 19v.
They come in handy, but I generally use the little non-vairable voltage bricks, they're nice and solid and weatherproof and only cost about $15 or so, maybe less, just depends how much current it needs to carry. For example:
.Or I could just run the transmitter from the DC and the other from the AC with the power station plugged into the wall so still have the UPS function. I'll have to try that.
Yeah! That's what I what I was saying, then there won't be no switching noise from the wall wart because it won't be used.
Wait a minute.. run what other from the AC? Run it all from DC, you're basically set up for it already.